Glass block installation tips
Next, apply a thin layer of mortar between the shims, then slide the new panel into place over them, adding more shims at the top to keep it in place. After that, pack any gaps around the bottom shims with mortar, then let it dry before mortaring the sides. Finally, remove all the shims and caulk the top of the window.
To learn how to figure out what size windows you need to replace your existing block windows, keep reading! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue. No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts.
Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Author Info Last Updated: September 16, Part 1. Measure your space. Installing glass block windows requires removing the current window frame, so ensure that you measure down to the masonry and not just the current window frame.
They can give you a more proper estimate. Getting the right dimensions is crucial. Take your measurements to your vendor. Whether you are purchasing from a dealer or having your panels fabricated, you will need to take your measurements down to the company where they will show you several styles to suit your needs. This will help you transport them with less risk of snapping any of the blocks off the larger panel.
Part 2. Remove the old window. If you break the old window, be extremely careful clearing the shards. Ensure the you sweep up or clear the area with a shop vac and wear gloves.
Cut through the frame. Use a circular saw or a hand saw to make the first cut into the current window frame. This will make it easier to pry out the frame. Rip out the old jamb.
For many frames you may be able to use a simple pry bar to rip out the frame. When dealing with metal frames cast in the concrete, it is usually best to leave these in place.
Take the first one and press it into the corner of the first block. Then lay a second one 8 inches 20 cm away. If the spacers still show after you press the blocks together, touch up the area with a bit more mortar to cover them. Alternatively, you could seal the mortar with caulk when it's cured.
This will cover any spacers or other imperfections. Spread mortar between the 2 spacers. Then spread mortar onto the side of the first block. Press the second block into position. Spread mortar on the side and bottom edges of the block. Then press it down between the 2 spacers.
Push it against the first block so the mortar binds them together. Maintain that separation between all the blocks in this job. If you're using glue or caulk to bond the blocks instead of mortar, then place a plastic strip between each block with glue on each side. These strips should come with an installation kit that uses glue.
Continue working down the line until you complete the first row. Follow the same procedure to lay each block. Work until the first layer of blocks is complete. Attach a reinforcing strip across the top of the blocks. Once the first row is complete, reinforce the blocks before starting the second row.
Installation kits come with reinforcing strips that go in between rows. Take the strip and screw it to the wall on one side. Then stretch it across the blocks, making sure it touches each one. Then screw it to the wall on the opposite side. Cut them to the length of the wall plus 6 inches 15 cm on each side to allow room for the screws. Follow the directions provided for the correct reinforcement method. Build row-by-row until you complete the installation. Repeat the same process for each row.
Place spacers down, spread the mortar, and press each block down. When you complete a row, reinforce it with a reinforcing strip. Method 3. Let the mortar set for hours before washing the blocks. Even though you scraped away excess mortar, there is almost certainly some leftover on the blocks. The washing process removes all of these imperfections, but not until the mortar has set.
Give it hours before you start washing. This job may take several hours, meaning that the first blocks you laid are dry enough for cleaning as soon as you complete installing the blocks. Scrub the blocks with a wet sponge. Dip a sponge in a bucket of plain, warm water and scrub any spots on the blocks that have mortar on them. Thin layers of mortar should come off easily with water and light scrubbing.
Only use plain water at this point. The mortar is not dry enough to handle cleaning from solvents or other chemicals. Run a dry cloth over the blocks after cleaning them. This wipes up any moisture and removes any remaining mortar remnants. Work in a circular motion and cover both sides of the block surface. Let the mortar cure for days. Once the job is complete, leave the mortar to dry. Don't do any additional cleaning or maintenance until the mortar has fully cured.
Avoid doing any construction near the blocks, or the vibrations could knock them out of place. Different mortar may have different set times. Always check the instructions on the product you use for the specific dry time.
Maintain your glass blocks by cleaning them once a week. After the mortar dries completely, start cleaning the glass blocks once a week. Make a solution of warm water and mild soap. Dip a fine cloth or sponge into the water and scrub the blocks in a circular motion. Then use a squeegee to wipe the water off.
Did you know you can get answers researched by wikiHow Staff? Unlock staff-researched answers by supporting wikiHow. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. Glass block mortar is a specially formulated product that is designed for glass block applications requiring white mortar joints.
It can be used in both interior and exterior applications. Glass block mortar can also be used in laying brick, block, and tile where white mortar is desired. The formulation is a mixture of white cement, white sand, hydrated lime, and other waterproofing additives.
Not Helpful 1 Helpful Wes David. If you are talking about head joints, I've seen them in excess of 2'', but that would mean the wrong size was built for the opening as glass block panels can be built to any size within 2''. I also recommend that you sweep up the floor and get all unnecessary stuff out of the way. Remove as many frames and old windows as you think you can deal with in a day. I prefer to get all the demo work done and do things in stages. I don't like to do these windows one at a time.
It really breaks up your momentum. A large window like this needs to be installed one glass block at a time. It's a huge window. Place these in from the corners about 3 inches or so. Slightly dampen the exposed masonry jambs with a spray bottle of water. Now for the fun part. Trowel some of the cement mortar onto the sill.
Don't use bricklayers' mortar. Use Portland cement and sand. It will be stronger and more waterproof. If mortar is your only alternative, it will work, but I prefer cement. Now tilt or slide the window onto the shims. Take two other shims and place them between the top of the window and the jamb. Slide them until they are just snug.
Check the window for plumb and square. You are also looking for equal reveal side to side. You want the window parallel with the inside and outside walls, not twisted. Use rubber gloves, small trowels, sticks, whatever it takes to pack the cement mortar around the window. Fill any pesky gaps at the bottom. Don't put any mortar on the top of the window. Downward pressure or stress over time can crack these windows. The top gap can be successfully filled with caulking tomorrow.
Your mortar may be too wet to tool as soon as you install it. Don't worry. Within a short period of time, the mortar will begin to harden.
You can tool it with an old spoon, a stick, or with your fingers. Use a damp sponge to remove mortar smears from the glass. Usually within about two hours, you can gently remove the shims. Apply pressure against the glass as you pull the shims.
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